In an interview with
Markus Lehmann, managing director of the Lehmann watch factory, he explains just
how much Leica DNA went into the new Leica watches.
Mr. Lehmann, how did the connection
between your company and Leica first come about?
When Leica began to pursue
watch projects a few years ago, we were asked whether we would generally be
interested in a joint endeavour. In the preliminary meetings that followed, it
quickly became clear that we could have a very fruitful collaboration.
How did you find
this collaboration?
Because our company has
built high-precision machines for Leica in the past, I found it very
interesting to now work together in an entirely different capacity. The watch
project is very close to my heart. Over the past two years, the connection
between the two brands has been repeatedly reinforced.
The movement of the Leica watch is a
complete in-house development. What makes it so particular?
The Leica watch has some
really unique features that you will not find in any conventional timepiece
currently on the market. We have created a watch that is characterised by
Leica’s DNA, but is autonomous in its design and execution. It is a truly
exceptional product on the watch market. In terms of mechanics, the challenge
was not only in the construction of the movement, but also in the production of
specific parts that had never existed in this form before.
One example is the
patented push-piece crown with separate position indicator on the dial – which,
in turn, is coupled with the zero position of the small second hand. All of the
movement parts have been designed by our own team and are largely produced
in-house. We also carry out the surface treatment, assembly and adjustment of
the movement. Being able to manufacture the majority of components in-house is
a great advantage, and it means that we even craft the casing, the dial and the
hands of the Leica watch ourselves.
What can you tell
us about the patented push-piece crown of the Leica watch?
Normally, you have to
slightly pull out the crown of a watch in order to adjust the watch hands. In
other words, the crown has two positions: one for winding the watch, the other
for setting the time; often, a quick-set mechanism for the date is also
integrated. On the Leica watch, however, we have implemented a push-piece crown
that has been coupled with a column wheel – not unlike on a chronograph. As
soon as you push the crown, the small, circular status indicator on the dial
turns from white to red, and you are able to set the time. The date, by
contrast, is adjusted via a separate push-button. Integrating this mechanism
into the construction of the movement proved to be a particularly challenging endeavor.
Even at the premium end of the market,
there are thousands of timepiece products to choose from. What is it that sets
Leica watches apart – in other words, what turns a watch into a Leica watch?
Aside from the example I
described, it is also the visual design that distinguishes the Leica watch from
other products on the market. This is what I was referring to when I talked
about integrating Leica’s DNA. For example, the shape of the watch body echoes
that of a camera. Similarly, the power reserve indicator is reminiscent of the
curved blades of an aperture: when the watch is fully wound, the indicator is
open and white; at the end of its running time, it is closed and black. The
push-piece crown alludes to the function of a shutter release. In essence, the
designers set out to create a watch that is both technically accomplished and
aesthetically pleasing – and I feel that this has definitely been achieved.
The product design industry has coined
the famous expression, “form follows function”. Coming from a more artisan
perspective, how would you say this applies to watchmaking?
This is another point in
which our collaboration was extremely positive. From the outset, Leica put
forward the watch’s proposed functions, such as the power reserve indicator and
the second time zone in the L2, as well as the introduction of the pushpiece
crown. We then drafted a preliminary design, and I examined if and how it could
be realised in practice. Anything that was feasible was implemented; otherwise,
we made adaptations. This is how both models were developed. A good concept must
make sense in terms of the watch’s inner workings, and involve parts that are
realistic to produce.
How much “Lehmann”
is in the Leica watch?
Our company was involved
in the development process from the very beginning, so the Leica watch also has
many Lehmann characteristics. We designed, built and tested numerous prototypes
before finally presenting the end result. It was important to me that this
collaboration with Leica would yield a truly excellent and extraordinary
timepiece. I take great pride in the Lehmann watches we have been manufacturing
for a number of years now, and which are a testament to our competence as
watchmakers. With the Leica watch, we have entered into a partnership that is
mutually beneficial and advances the evolution of both brands, despite the fact
that we each occupy such different fields.
THE
PARENT COMPANY “LEHMANN PRÄZISION” SUPPLIES HIGH-PRECISION PARTS FOR THE
CONSTRUCTION INDUSTRY,
AS WELL AS MACHINERY FOR THE WATCHMAKING INDUSTRY.
For other articles on this blog please click on Blog Archive in the column to the right
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For other articles on this blog please click on Blog Archive in the column to the right
To comment or to read comments please scroll past the ads below.
All ads present items of interest to Leica owners.
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